WHAT PAPER IS BEST FOR SHADOW BOXES?

Doing paper art is so enjoyable. It has SO many uses, and I'm continually in awe of its adaptability, like how you can build up layers of paper to form a three-dimensional object. Paper layers add depth and emotion to a scene. This layer of paper is called Shadow Box! If you want to create your shadow box, you have to purchase, of course, paper. But what paper is best for shadow boxes?

You'll need 65 lb. of paper for this Shadow Box Paper Art project in white or a light color. Light and shadows combine to provide a magical effect. And the shadow box paper art comes to life when you shine a light behind it. So, you must utilize 65 lb. -standard 20 or 24-lb. cardstock paper because it is too light and see-through. The 80 lb cardstock won't let enough light in.

Paper is the main supply you'll need for this fantastic project, so choose the best!

WHAT MATERIALS DO YOU NEED TO MAKE A VINYL SHADOW BOX?

Here's another craft idea that you will surely adore- layered cardstock project or shadow box project! If you buy a shadow box frame for each masterpiece, it will look like an expensive masterpiece, and everyone will love to display them all! Thankfully, you can create your shadow box with the help of your Cricut, and you can even add lights to give your project life and color!

Let's say that you wanted to create your cardinal shadow box. Listed below are the materials and tools you need:

• For the cardinal and background layers, use 12′′ x 12′′ 65 lb Cardstock in shades of orange, black, brown, green, and white and 8.5′′ x 11′′ 65 lb Cardstock in shades of red.
• Use both the 0.25" and the 0.37" widths of double-sided adhesive foam tape to stack the layers.
• You can put a 3.3-foot-long strand of fairy lights, to be inserted behind the cardstock layers in your shadow box. For securing the white background layers and fairy lights, use 3/8′′ Zots Glue Dots.
• Optional 3/16′′ Zots Glue Dots for securing and adding dimension between the cardinal layers
• Use the Cricut Maker 3, but the Cricut Maker and Cricut Explore Series machines can also be used with a standard Fine-Point Blade to cut your cardstock.
• Cricut Green StandardGrip Machine Mat 12" x 12" or Cricut Blue LightGrip Machine Mat 12" x 12"
• Spatula, scissors, and a brayer
• Perhaps a weeding tool could help to remove the excess vinyl.

You'll also need these things if you're making a DIY shadow box frame:

• White, 12 x 12, 65 lb cardstock
• Use a scraper tool or ruler to create a straight, acute crease.
• If you prefer the scored file, which allows less light to pass through the frame, you can use a scoring stylus or a single scoring wheel.

If you're using vinyl on a pre-made frame, you'll also need:

• A shadow box size 10" x 10"
• Transfer tape with a standard grip and permanent vinyl
• Using scissors and a weeding tool, cut away extra material
• Make sure to clean the glass with rubbing alcohol and a lint-free cloth

You'll need the following to create a size-joy cardinal

• Use a StandardGrip or LightGrip mat with a Cricut Joy
• 65 lb cardstock in red, orange, black, and white that has been cut to fit your Joy's mat is helpful.
• A brayer, a spatula, and a craft glue
• weeding tool.
• Making a hanging ornament requires looping some string or ribbon and adhering it to the back.

And lastly, you will need an Adhesive Vinyl to add some text designs on the glass frame. You can also level up the sides of your frame by adhering some designs.

The cardinal's body layers were created using three (3) sheets of 8.5" x 11" 65 lb red cardstock.

For the cardinal's outline and beak, you'll need two (2) sheets of 8.5" x 11" or 12" x 12" 65 lb cardstock (one (1) sheet of black and one (1) sheet of orange).

Two (2) sheets of white, one (1) sheet of brown, and one (1) sheet of green for the background layers out of four (4) sheets of 12" x 12" 65 lb cardstock in various colors.

Two (2) 12" x 12" sheets of 65 lb. white cardstock are required to create a shadow box frame on your own.

If you're not making one out of cardstock, you can opt to use one (1) 10" x 10" shadow box.

One (1) 3.3-foot-long strand of fairy lights optionally placed behind the cardstock layers in your shadow box.

For optionally adding a sentiment to the inside or outside of your shadow box's glass, use permanent vinyl. And an optional StandardGrip Transfer Tape for applying vinyl to the shadow box glass.

Optional:

• Isopropyl alcohol to clean the shadow box's glass surface before applying the decal.
• Use a lint-free cloth to clean the shadow box's glass before sticking the decal.
• Ruler for assisting with cardstock frame folding

HOW DO YOU MAKE A CARDINAL SHADOW BOX?

Cardinals are beautiful, but making their intricate feathers out of paper is challenging. It's crucial to use high-quality paper to ensure that cuts like these turn out well. Alternatively, you can use some mandala-inspired patterns to illustrate the various red layers in his feathers. Despite their complexity, our Cricut machines are up to the task! Even on the thin black layer, the 8.5" x 11" and 12" x 12" 65 lb cardstock.

I'll also demonstrate how fairy lights can add a delicate glow to your shadow box! If you want to add more sparkle, glue some white glitter to the branches for a hint of snow. Using a different frame produces noticeably different results, but they are all beautiful.

LEARN HOW TO CREATE YOUR OWN LAYERED CARDINAL SVG DESIGN SHADOW BOX WITH LIGHTS!

Step 1: Get your free cardinal SVG files.

Start by downloading your Cardinal design, which can be found in your resource library on Cricut Design Space as SVG, DXF, or PDF files.

Add the SVG files to your Canvas by uploading them to Cricut Design Space.

Step 2: Prepare your design files.

You can enlarge the image by clicking the minus (-) symbol in the lower left to see all the designs. To make both files visible on your Canvas, click and drag one to the side.

Before cutting, you must convert and attach the score lines if you're making a cardstock frame. The Layers Panel has two layers with slender lines and no shapes. To make them stand out from the other elements, I've made the red score lines in the color swatch icon.

Click on the two intended Score Layers in the Layers Panel while holding Shift. At the top of the Layers Panel, click "UnGroup" while selecting the frame. Make sure that the top menu panel's color swatch is red. If it isn't, you might have unintentionally chosen another layer. Click away from the design and try once more.

The lines are now dashed to indicate the machine will score instead of cutting them after changing the Operation at the top from "Basic Cut" to "Score."

Hold down the Shift key as you choose a Score layer and the Cut layer immediately beneath it in the Layers Panel to attach the score lines to the appropriate cut layers. Next, select "Attach" from the Layers Panel's bottom menu. The layers that have just been attached will rise to the top of the Layers Panel. Repeat for the other pair of layers to be cut and scored.

Make sure you want to include everything visible on your Canvas before cutting your design. An object can be deleted or hidden if you don't want to cut it. For instance, you won't have glass to decorate with the vinyl quote if you make a shadow box frame out of cardstock rather than buying one. So you would remove the layer in dark gray. If you're mounting your cardinal inside a shadow box, you can also omit the layer with the plain white square. By doing this, the Birch trees will stand out dramatically because the backing material of your frame will be visible.

Step 3: Cut your cardinal SVG design

We are now prepared to cut. Select the appropriate machine, then click "Make It."

Click "On Mat," "12 in x 12 in," and "Continue" if prompted.

For your cardinal and background, use cardstock in the following eight hues: white, black, brown, orange, green, bright red, medium red, and dark red. I prefer a frame that is made from white cardstock. But you can pick any colors you want. Specifically for the layers, ensure there is enough contrast between each color.

Use the "Medium Cardstock - 80 lb (216 gsm)" setting with "More" Pressure for the majority of my mats. However, you can use the "Cardstock (for intricate cuts)" setting because it produced better results for the two highly detailed cardinal layers (bright red and medium red mats). If you have trouble removing the intricate layers, try cutting them using a LightGrip mat instead of the Standard. Click "Browse All Materials" and enter "Intricate" in the search field to find it. Then select the outcome, click "Apply," and leave the Pressure at "Default."

Choose "Premium Vinyl - Permanent Glossy" with "More" Pressure for that layer if you cut the vinyl decal. Make sure "Mirror" is activated if you want to apply the vinyl to the inside of the glass.

You must place the scoring wheel for those mats in Clamp B if you're making the DIY frame or the scoring stylus for those mats in Clamp A. Follow the on-screen instructions to load your tools for the appropriate mats in the correct order.

Use a brayer to fully adhere the material for your first mat after placing it on your StandardGrip machine mat. After ensuring your Fine-Point Blade is tidy and secured in Clamp B, place the mat inside the machine and hit "Go."

Unload the mat, turn it over, and roll it back to release the cardstock after the cut is complete. This lessens the likelihood of the fabric ripping and curling.

For the remaining mats, follow the same procedures. Cutting the mats with fine details will take more time. To get rid of those pieces, gently slide your spatula under them. Keep an eye on the tiny pieces!

Step 4: Arrange your cardinal and layer the background

We'll begin with the layers in the background:

• simple square object
• piece with cutouts of birch trees
• piece with cutouts of pine needles
• and a part with cutouts for tree branches.

I used various adhesive products, including Bearly Art craft glue, two sizes of clear Zots glue dots, and two widths of double-sided adhesive foam tape, to create the 3D effect and make this project stand out. You can combine these on your project to get the look you want.

Since these glue dots are so sticky, ripped the paper backing around each dot. Then, press the dot onto your cardstock while it's still attached, and peel off the backing, leaving the dot in place. This way, you never have to touch the glue dots with your fingers, and you don't have to worry about them sticking to you or each other.

Turn the birch tree layer over to the bottom to attach them. To determine which side is the front and which the back is, you should refer to your Design Space Canvas.

Put glue dots on each of the four corners, the edge of each side, and the individual birch trees inside the layer.

The layer should be turned over and held above the superficial square layer. As soon as the edges are straight, lightly place the layer of birch trees on top. If everything appears in place, press firmly to seal the two layers together.

TIP: If aligning all four sides is challenging, try applying glue dots to just one half of your top layer, attaching it to your bottom layer, then repeating with the other side.

Grab some medium (0.37") foam tape and the pine needle layer. Place this layer on top of your two assembled layers and note where the pine needle pieces touch the birch tree pieces below before applying any adhesive strips to the back of this layer. The tape ought to be used there. You can lightly mark the spots on the back with a pencil if you want.

After flipping it over:

1. Place your pine needle layer flat on your work surface.
2. Cut thin foam tape strips with your scissors.
3. Remove the backing one at a time, then affix them where you indicated above.

Like you did with the birch tree layer, place a strip in each of the four corners and one in the middle along the edge of each side.

If it helps, you can remove the backing from only the strips on one side of the layer, attach that side, and then continue with the other to complete the layer's attachment. The adhesive strips should have their other backing removed. The layer should then be flipped over and positioned over the assembled layers. As soon as everything appears friendly and straight, press down to secure the layers.

Next, use thinner (0.25" width) adhesive foam tape to secure the branch layer. Ensure your strips are cut thin enough so they won't peek out from the edges of the branches.

Lay aside your background layers for the moment. We'll assemble the cardinal after that.

You'll require the following:

• three pieces of red
• orange bird's beak
• black eyepiece
• the layer of black outline
• Artistic glue
• as well as tiny 3/16" glue dots.

Place the beak and eyepieces where they will be attached on the black layer, which should be placed face down. You'll need to apply a thin line of glue where they overlap, so pay attention to how much they overlap. Apply glue to the black layer and press the beak and eye into place with gentle pressure. Wipe away any extra glue that leaks around the edges with your finger or a paper towel.

Place this part aside.

Place tiny glue dots on the back of your top layer, the bright red layer with the most intricate cutouts, using the same technique you used for the other layers. Make use of about 18 glue dots. Try to distribute the dots evenly and attach them to any sizable blank spaces on this layer.

The medium red layer, which has slightly fewer intricate cutouts than the middle cardinal layer, is my red layer on the reverse side. Press down to attach the two layers once they are firmly in alignment.

Apply glue dots to the back of the middle layer using the same procedure, and then join it to the bottom layer (my dark red one without any cutouts).

The outline layer can now adhere to the red layers with glue. I discovered that breaking it up into two sections made it simpler. Apply a very thin line of glue around the top half of the cardinal's lines as you place your black outline layer face down.

Flip it carefully, then place it on top of your red layers. Before applying pressure to the top of these layers to adhere them, make sure the edges are straight.

Lift the tail of the black layer once that portion is attached. The red layer underneath should have glue applied, but only where the black will cover it. Once you're done, press firmly to secure the two layers together. Wipe away any extra glue with a paper towel or your finger.

Now let's use foam adhesive tape to secure the cardinal to the background. We will need to use double and triple layers of adhesive tape in some places to fill the depth as necessary because the background layers are all different heights. You can use 0.37" or 0.25" wide tape for this component.

As best as you can, center the cardinal on your background. Position the bottom of the body right at the branch's top edge to give the impression that the cardinal is sitting on it. Make a note of the locations where foam tape strips will be needed to hold the cardinal in place,

Use tape on the following areas:

• beneath the cardinal's chin
• the bulk of the body
• the wing's lower section
• the tail, too.

You can attach the tape to the back of the cardinal if that is easier for you, but we found it to be more convenient to attach it to the background first.

Place the cardinal above the stack of foam strips after removing the backing from the top. To adhere, apply pressure.

Step 5: Assemble the vinyl sentiment in a glass shadow box

It's ready to attach if you plan to put your cardinal on display in a shadow box you bought! Before adhering your assembled layers to your frame, ensure they all fit comfortably inside. After that, adhere your white background layer to the backing of your frame using several medium-sized glue dots, providing the hanging hardware is facing the right way.

You can now decorate your glass with the quote using your vinyl decal. You can put your name on it so that everybody knows who create that Cardinal Shadow Box. Before applying the design, make sure it has been weeded. First, use rubbing alcohol and a lint-free cloth to clean the area of the glass where you want to display your vinyl design. After that, cut a transfer tape piece slightly larger than your decal. Apply the transfer tape to the decal and burnish it on both sides using the "taco" method, which involves shaping the tape into a taco shape and lowering the bottom onto the center of the design.

Apply the decal to the glass again using the "taco" method after removing the backing from the transfer tape. Before applying pressure, check that the decal is straight and that the placement is satisfactory. Before removing the transfer tape, burnish the decal onto the glass in all directions. You can also add some small leaves around the frame of your shadow box. Any design you wish to adhere to on your shadow box is possible using your adhesive vinyl!

Step 6: Assemble the vinyl sentiment in a glass shadow box

It's ready to attach if you plan to put your cardinal on display in a shadow box you bought! Before adhering your assembled layers to your frame, ensure they all fit comfortably inside. After that, adhere your white background layer to the backing of your frame using several medium-sized glue dots, providing the hanging hardware is facing the right way.

You can now decorate your glass with the quote if you cut a vinyl decal. Before applying the design, make sure it has been weeded.

First, use rubbing alcohol and a lint-free cloth to clean the area of the glass where you want to display yours. After that, cut a transfer tape piece slightly larger than your decal. Apply the transfer tape to the decal and burnish it on both sides using the "taco" method, which involves shaping the tape into a taco shape and lowering the bottom onto the center of the design.

Before removing the transfer tape:

1. Burnish the decal onto the glass in all directions.
2. Apply the decal to the glass again using the "taco" method after removing the backing from the transfer tape.
3. Before applying pressure, check that the decal is straight and that the placement is satisfactory.

Step 7: Assemble your cardstock frame

Putting together the DIY cardstock shadow box frame is simple!

First, place the two white frame pieces in front of you, face down, with the scored lines. Both pieces should be folded upward along the score lines. If necessary, crease along the folds using your scraper tool.

It is helpful to bend the cardstock along a flat-edged object, such as a ruler, to create neat, straight folds.

Ensure your front frame piece—the one with the center cutout—slides easily onto your back frame once the glue has dried. The frame is now prepared!

PUT FAIRY LIGHTS!

You can add fairy lights behind your background layers in your cardstock frame to make them stand out even more.

Let's now secure the cardinal and background layers to the back of the frame. Ensure they won't be visible or interfere with the lights. Create several triple stacks of medium foam tape on the bottom frame piece in the corners, the middle of each side, and one in the exact center.

Slide the front of the frame over the top once the cardinal is attached to the back. Then, adhere it with a few glue dots around the outside edges.

Other Vinyl Crafting Articles

Please click the links below for more blogs that you may find helpful in your crafting adventures:

AN INTRODUCTION TO DIFFERENT TYPES OF VINYL

BEST VINYL CRAFTS YOU NEED TO TRY

HOW MANY LAYERS DOES A SHADOW BOX HAVE?

The background, frames, and focal points are the three main components of a shadow box. The thing you wanted to stand out is the focal point. You could use a silhouette of a person, an animal, a fictional character, or something else significant and personal. The focal point must be well-defined and free from any overlapping or touching layers. Its frames are the components along the edges, top, sides, and bottom of a shadow box. Frequently, objects like trees, flowers, and other less significant structures, creatures, and shapes—or anything else that fits the theme—help direct the viewer's attention to the focal point. The area visible behind the focal point and frames is known as the shadow box's background. It may be basic and straightforward.

You can use two to four layers for your shadow box project. The same file you are cutting will determine whether it has four box layers, one background piece, and an optional hanger. Accessories may be included as embellishments to some designs.

The frame layers come first. Now, there are typically at least two layers to give your shadow box depth. The backdrop layer follows the top frame layers and the focal point layer. Occasionally, you may add more frames behind the focal point. So this is the front-to-back order for a shadow box.

And that's it! I hope you get inspired doing this new project-the, Shadow Box.

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